Italy’s best-kept food secret: the sagra festival

October 12, 2017

Italys food festivals are not just a chance to savor fantastic regional specialities, but also to delve into local culture and autumn is the time to go

Italys best-kept food secret is the sagra . A festival organised to show off a local food or drink( or both ), a sagra is a place where youll eat well and learn. Most sagre have local producers selling the goods, but there are also tastings, competitions, demonstrations and special menu. And theyre not just about the food: many sagre have their roots in old country carnivals or pagan celebrations celebrating the harvest and have been running for decades, even centuries. And while some have risen beyond local status to that of crowded international festivals, hundreds remain events where youll dine and drink elbow-to-elbow with locals. Here are seven autumn sagre that are both bustling but still true to their roots.

Sagra della Castagna, Soriano nel Cimino, Lazio

29 September-2 October and 6-9 October

A
A costumed medieval banquet at the Sagra della Castagna. Photo: Marcello Mascellini

Yes, youll find chestnuts roast in every piazza in this unspoilt hilltop township an hours drive north of Rome. But this sagra is about more than that: its also when Sorianos four districts duke it out over which one best transports the town to a bygone era. In the Convivium Secretum, for example, costumed locals serve dishes such as capon fricassee and white-rabbit tart in the competition for best historic banquet. There are also jousts, archery and in a dramatic finale 700 townsfolk, each looking like theyve sprung to life from a Renaissance painting or medieval tapestry, parading through the streets.
Admission for ticketed events from 2,
sagradellecastagne.com

Where to feed, year-round
Get a savour of Soriano nel Ciminos history and in-season specialities such as tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms and chestnut-and-beef stew at Rottezzia Osteria-Birreria ( 10, Via Dello Scarico, +39 0761 7490 22 ), where the owner gives tours of the caves that make up the medieval stone quarry-turned-wine-cellar and now osteria.

Where to bide
Try the 19 th-century stone farmhouse surrounded by wood at Podere Pontepietra ( doublings from 55 B& B ), whose three rooms have private bathrooms, wood-beamed ceilings and the opinions of the Tiber valley.

Mortadellab, Bologna

20 -2 3 October

Plate
Mortadella, a dish many see as the Italian precursor of bologna. Photograph: Charlotte Observer/ Getty Images

The pink sausage known as mortadella bologna has been beloved for ages it was even traded like currency in the middle ages. And with its IGP protection ensuring no preservatives, artificial colours or flavour, this version is as far from US or UK baloney as you can get. No wonder the festival in its accolade now in its fourth year has become so popular: 130,000 came last year. Mortadella is sliced and served with bubbly aperitivo in the city streets, says Italy-based food novelist Eleonora Baldwin, while tastings, demonstrations and competitors sprawl across Bolognas central Piazza Maggiore. As the president of the Consorzio Mortadella Bologna set it: I guarantee that it will be love at first slice.
mortadellabologna.com

Where to feed, year round
Try mortadella at Pasquini& Brusiani , a butcher-delicatessen that has been cooking by traditional methods since 1950; its open to customers from Monday to Wednesday and Friday.

Where to stay
Overlooking vineyards and the hills of the Parco dei Gessi Bolognesi at Ca del Frate ( doublings from 95 B& B ), a pretty, peaceful B& B six miles from the centre of Bologna.

Fiera del Tartufo Bianco, SantAgata Feltria, Emilia-Romagna

Every Sunday in October

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The medieval hilltop town of SantAgata Feltria. Photo: Atlantide Phototravel/ Getty Images

The most famous of Italys truffle festivals is the International White Truffle Fair in Alba. But the medieval hilltop town of SantAgata Feltria near where Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, Le Marche and Umbria intersect is home to a festival as local as it is vibrant. In the main tent restaurants scoop out dishes such as truffle-infused cheese fondue, truffled veal and gnocchi with truffle, while vendors proudly display their( wonky-looking) wares and no matter where you walk, the earthy smell persists. Dont miss the race of the truffle-hunting dogs on 11 October.
prolocosantagatafeltria.com

Where to feed, year round
Enjoy upmarket versions of local specialities believe black-pig carpaccio or ravioli with truffle, sausage and mascarpone at Il Tulipano Nero , a sleek eatery that lately opened in town.

Where to stay
In a medieval village complete with tower and a B& B restored by local artists into the enchanting Il Borgo del Sole e della Luna ( doubleds from 60 B& B ), simply three miles from town.

Bitto in Centro, Morbegno, Lombardy

15 -1 6 October

Blocks
Blocks of bitto( cheese ). Photograph: Getty Images

The small town of Morbegno is near the border of Switzerland, 70 miles north-east of Milan, and few foods reflect that like its beloved cheese. Dedicated protected( DOP) status 20 years ago, bitto , which is soft and sweet when young but gets sharper as it ages, relies on cows grazing on Alpine grasslands. The sagra offers tastings and bitto-centric menus( look for the most traditional dish: the cheese melted over pizzoccheri , a buckwheat pasta ), as well as vendors selling products such as Alpine-herb amaro or local honey. What I love about this sagra and many sagre on the northern bounds of Italy is how much the cheese and its preparations feel distinctly connected to the neighbouring nations, in this case Switzerland, says Katie Parla, an Italy food expert and writer of the book Tasting Rome. Its a wonderful reminder of how what is perceived as authentic Italian cuisine is just a small part of Italys gastronomic culture.

Where to eat, year round
Try bitto at the Slow Food restaurant
Osteria del Crotto , which also serves local dishes like roasted lamb and ricotta ravioli.

Where to remain
Sleep in silence and wake up to the crisp Alpine air at the homey B& B Costiera dei Cech ( doubles 58 B& B ), which is in the mountains a six miles drive from Morbegno.

Bacco nelle Gnostre, Noci, Puglia
5-6 November

Visitors
Visitors revel in the foodie streets at Bacco nelle Gnostre

Held in a fairly, whitewashed town halfway between Bari and Taranto, this festival celebrates the Pugliese spirit at its most welcome, where locals prepare food at home and share it with passersby in the towns distinctive gnostre ( semi-private courtyards ). Grab a steaming dish of orecchiette or grilled octopus and rinse it down with a glass of vino novello, primitivo or negramaro, while listening to the thrum of tarantella that threads through the streets. On every alley theres something happening, says Puglia native Antonello Losito, founder of Southern Visions Travel. If person asked a question: I want a quick showcase of Puglia, as Ive never been before and I only have two hours, Id bring them here.
formichedipuglia.it

Where to eat, year round
Between its superstar chef and lovely place in a courtyard in the heart of Noci its no wonder that LAntica Locanda is famous for its top-notch versions of traditional dishes like orecchiette with capocollo or fava beans and chicory.

Where to bide
The historic masseria( fortified farmhouse ), Abate Masseria ( doubleds from 89 B& B ), is spotted with trulli ( the cone-roofed houses unique to Puglia ), all carefully restored and complete with a swimming pool, tennis courts and a horse stable thats now a restaurant.

Fiera Nazionale del Marrone, Cuneo, Piedmont

14 -1 6 October

Marrone
Roast with the most marrone are celebrated, and eaten in great sums, at the celebration in Cuneo

Now in its 18 th year, this festival in Cuneo, 60 miles south of Turin, has become one of Italys most popular, welcoming about 300,000 visitors. And with good reason. The chestnuts more desirable, sweeter cousin( and the one used for marrons glacs ), marrone have been cultivated in the field since the middle ages. This celebration in the fruit accolade is Italys foremost, but its not just marrone youll discover here: 250 vendors also sell local olive oils, cheese, wine and the not-to-be-missed cuneesi al rhum , a local speciality of rum-infused darknes chocolate.
marrone.net

Where to eat, year round
With an emphasis on Slow Food, local and organic products, Osteria Senza Fretta ( the no-rush osteria) has observed a following for dishes such as vitello tonnato ( sliced veal in a tuna-flavoured sauce) and Alpine-herb risotto.

Where to stay
Agriturismo Tetto Garro ( doublings from 70 B& B) is a running 15 -hectare farm of walnut, chestnut and hazelnut trees, whose impeccably renovated barn offers surprisingly stylish and contemporary rooms.

La Sagra dellUva, Marino, Lazio

30 September to 3 October

Read more: www.theguardian.com

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